Yuigahama beach in Kamakura, home of the 2020 Summer Japan Olympic sailing events

Shonan in the Sun: The Gold Coast of Japan

Posted on by Ben Weller

The Shonan region of Japan encompasses the coastal beaches and cities of Sagami Bay, situated just southwest of Tokyo. A magnet for tourists in the summer, the region’s mild climate attracts surfers and other children of the sun year round. They come for the ocean air, the sunsets, and for the chance, on clear days, to surf in the shadow of Mt. Fuji, towering in the distance.

Already famous in Japan thanks to several popular novels and films, Shonan will soon get global attention. In June, the International Olympic Committee announced that Fujisawa’s Enoshima Yacht Harbor, right in the heart of Shonan, will host sailing events for the 2020 Summer Olympics.

Olympic sailing events in Japan Enoshima yacht harbor, home of the 2020 Summer Japan Olympic sailing events

Enoshima Yacht Harbor in Fujisawa, Japan, will host sailing events during the 2020 Summer Olympics. Ben Weller/www.wellerpix.com

To me, Shonan has become a second home. Aya’s family is from Fujisawa, and we were married in Kamakura. We’re big fans of the Olympics, so to have an event happening right in our backyard is a real treat. Five years out, and we’re already preparing for the influx of Olympian athletes and their fans. The three galleries below will walk you through the areas that make up the central hub of the Shonan region, and will hopefully serve as a guide for any visitors to Sagami Bay. Click on the first picture to view each gallery.

  1. Enoshima Island, the physical and spiritual heart of Shonan, offers tourists an idyllic walk among parks, shrines, caves, tidal pools, and rock formations. Get your reservations early for a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) where you can sleep on tatami mats and bathe in hot springs. Back on the mainland, across a short causeway, you can find surf shops and pubs, rent jet skis, or just relax on the beach.
Enoshima Island offers tourists an idyllic walk among parks, shrines, temples, caves, tidal pools, and rock formations. Get your reservations early for a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) where you can sleep on tatami mats and bathe in hot springs.
The main road leading up the hill of Enoshima Island.
Ryokan along the main street of Enoshima Island.
The hawks at Enoshima are beautiful, but can also be a nuisance. I’ve seen one snatch food out of the hands of a toddler.
The island is also populated by thousands of very tame cats. Between the cats and the hawks, there are likely very few rodents left on the island.
On Enoshima Island, a central street is lined with gift shops and restaurants. Grab some snacks at this dango shop before you hike up through the shrine and over the hill to the Southern Coast.
Dango is a Japanese treat made from rice flour and sweetened red bean paste.
Dango is a Japanese treat made from rice flour and sweetened red bean paste.
If you get thirsty on your walk up the hill, there are several restaurants at the top. Enjoy a cold beer and take in the scenery.
Inside a small shrine on Enoshima
A yacht in Sagami Bay as people walk along the coast of Enoshima Island.

2. Surfing at Kugenuma

Just west of Enoshima Island is the Kugenuma Beach area, closest to Fujisawa City. I spend a lot of time here with my wife and with my camera. The views of Mt. Fuji are spectacular on clear days, and it’s also one of the most popular surfing spots in Shonan. The waves aren’t massive, but what the beach lacks in intensity, it makes up for in a zen-like calm. The skate park next to the beach channels that zen, and is quite possibly my favorite place to photograph–anywhere.

The beaches of Shonan in Sagami Bay attract surfers year round. The waves are usually pretty gentle, but even the most seasoned surfers will enjoy the area’s natural beauty.
The skate park at Kugenuma beach is my personal favorite. The place kind of encompasses the youth culture of Shonan, and as a photographer, it offers endless possibilities. The park may be closed soon due to budget constraints. The Olympics may either push it out or bring some much needed attention to this gem of the Shonan area.
On clear days at Shonan, Mt. Fuji towers in the distance.
A surfer prepares himself to enter the water at Kugenuma beach in Fujisawa, Japan.
Young surfers prepare to enter the water at Kugenuma Beach in Fujisawa.
The Kugenuma Skatepark attracts BMX enthusiasts and professionals.
A surfer watches the waves at Kugenuma beach, Shonan region, Japan.
The ocean at dusk.
A woman collects shells at Kugenuma beach in Fujisawa, Kangawa Prefecture, Japan.

3. Kamakura

This small but historically significant city adjacent to Fujisawa is hip and hella fun. If you’re there for a day, visit the city’s famous Kotoku-in Temple in the morning, and walk inside its famous daibutsu (large Buddha statue). Have lunch in town, and then spend the afternoon at Yuigahama Beach. Everything’s within walking distance from Hase Station on the Enoden Line, connecting Kamkura with Fujisawa.

The Daibutsu (giant Buddha) at Kōtoku-in Temple in Kamakura is a short walk from the beach and is one of the most iconic Buddhist structures in Japan.
Take a walk through the hillside gardens of Kōtoku-in.
Candles at Kōtoku-in, Kamakura, Japan
You can cast coins into a Japanese wishing well at Kōtoku-in.
The daibutsu Buddha statue at Kōtoku-in is big enough to walk inside.
Shonan includes several popular beaches. Here, a family enters the water at Yuigahama Beach in Kamakura.
People enjoying the sun at Yuigahama Beach in Kamakura, Japan.
Kids play soccer at Yuigahama Beach.
Beachgoers in bikinis pose for a photograph at Yuigahama Beach in Kamakura.
Kamakura, like the rest of Shonan, pulses with a kind of bohemian, counterculture vibe.
Transportation around the area can be tricky, so research beforehand. The Enoden train line connects Kamakura to Fujisawa Station, with access to Tokyo.
A train conductor cleans a window on the Enoden train.
People cross the train tracks at Hase Station.

These are just a few of the places to go, and things to do, while you’re in Japan for the 2020 Summer Olympics. I’ll continue to add more tips to the blog as the Games approach. Aya pointed out that I need some more food pictures, so our next trip to Shonan, in November, will be food-focused, with a blog post to follow.

Ben Weller is a photographer based in Nagoya, Japan. All images by Ben Weller / www.wellerpix.com © 2015

Lightroom, Travel

A Day in Nagoya: Boat Race Tokoname

Gallery | Posted on by Ben Weller

As a photographer in Japan, I get to see some pretty cool stuff, either on assignment or just out exploring with my camera. As I explore, I’ve started making a mental tourist map of places to revisit with my wife, to take friends and family who come to visit, or to suggest to first-time travelers in Japan. So, I’m going to start a new section here on the blog called “A Day in Nagoya,” where I guide you, my readers, around my new city with camera in hand. Since I live here, I have more than a day, but everything I plan to feature is something that you could do if you were short on time in the city. And of course, as this is a photography blog, I’m going to try to choose places, events, and activities that have a strong visual appeal. Mind you, if you only have one day here, you’ll want to choose carefully, because there are a lot of fun options. Hopefully this new section will help you do just that.

First up, Boat Race Tokoname:

kyotei boat race in tokoname, near nagoya.

Racers try to break out at the start of the race.

If you’ve ever taken the Meitetsu Line from Chubu Centrair International Airport to Nagoya Station, you may have looked out the train window and seen the boat racing arena at Tokoname. Perhaps you’ve even seen a race underway. I’d been curious about these races for awhile, so I decided to head out there last Sunday and see what it’s all about.

The Japanese term for this type of racing is kyōtei which simply translates as “boat racing”. The sport is one of four types of racing (also including horse, bike, and motorcycle) on which betting is legal in Japan. These are small, one-person hydroplanes, and races consist of 3 quick laps around a 600m water course.

kyotei boat race gambling in japan

Boat racing is one of four types of “public sports” for which betting is legal in Japan.

I’m not a gambler; I went to photograph the races and learn a little bit more about the sport. There were a couple of other photographers, but most people came to bet. Still, it was nice to see a few families who seemed like they were just enjoying watching–and listening to–the boats on a beautiful and warm autumn day in Japan.

Click on an image below to enter the gallery.

kyotei boat race, japan
Racers compete at Boat Race Tokoname, located near Chubu Centrair International Airport serving Nagoya and Aichi prefecture.
japan boat race nagoya-8
kyotei boat race tokoname japan
The boats hydroplane above the water as the reach top speed.
kyotei boat race in tokoname, near nagoya.
Racers try to break out at the start of the race.
kyotei boat race in tokoname japan
There are minimum weight requirements for the racers, as in the past they would attempt to starve themselves to make their boats lighter.
boat race tokoname japan
A racer pulls away from the pack at Boat Race Tokoname, near Nagoya, Japan.
kyotei boat race gambling in japan
Boat racing is one of four types of “public sports” for which betting is legal in Japan.
kyotei boat race in japan
Two men study the odds during a break between races.
Kotei boat race in Nagoya, Japan.
A speedboat passes the scoreboard at Boat Race Tokoname.
A man studies the odds at Boat Race Tokoname.
A man studies the odds at Boat Race Tokoname.
kyotei boat race in Nagoya, Japan.
People watch the boat race. Some come to gamble, others just to enjoy the speed.
sports photography in japan, kyotei boat race, nagoya
Kyōtei boat racing at Boat Race Tokoname in Nagoya, Aichi prefecture, Japan.

Boat Race Tokoname is located within easy walking distance of Tokoname Station on the Meitetsu line. General admittance is ¥100 (less than a buck), you can sit inside or out, and there several cheap and delicious food options available. Check the website for more information.

Ben Weller is a photographer in Nagoya, Japan. View his website here or contact him for assignments around Japan or Korea.